Diary & Travel Reports by Simon Milward
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00/09/01 Hot Spot Timor
Fri, 01 Sep 2000 14:32:21 GMT |
2k/08/28 West Timor - where next?
2k/08/09
2k/07/25
2k/07/17
2k/07/12
2k/06/12
2k/06/02
2k/03/28
2k/03/08
2k/02/19
2k/02/09
2k/01/28
2k/01/21
2k/01/10
99/12/26
99/12/26
99/12/23
99/10/
99/09/23
99/09/06
99/07/28
99/07/17
99/07/11
99/06/12
99/05/04
99/04/10 |
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Hi OK this is the last email from Asia for the time being. I thought I'd round it off with a quick update since things seem to be hotting up here in this world 'hot spot'. But I've only been in West Timor (Kupang and its environs) I've not had the benefit of going to newly independent East Timor. This is because the border is a no go zone right now for white foreigners, acording to the UN whose blessing I need to attempt the border crossing. It is the one year anniversary of independence of East Timor and tensions are high. There's a 24 hour 7 day demo outside the office of UNTAET (United Nations Transitional Administration in East Timor) by pro-integrationists protesting at Jakarta's planned closure of the refugee camps in West Timor, and also blaming the UN to some degree for their troubles.
Some refugees want to go back East, others want to stay, and still more don't know what they want. It's all pretty much confused underlining the hard job that the UN and NGOs face, with some aid individuals injured last week on refugee camps by the very people they are trying to help. There was rampage on Kupang streets too which is feared will pale into insignificance compared to the rioting expected from next Monday. Perhaps the greatest shame is that a few isolated pockets of trouble in the massive and diverse country of Indonesia has affected them all through the international media. "Why?" is a question I'm often asked. Killing sells stories but the good stuff goes unrepoprted, people stop coming here, and misery is caused for so many even though they have nothing to do with it. I feel like I let myself down a bit by not going to Dili in East Timor. At last there could have been some real excitement! I accepted Merpati's amazing offer (big thanks to them) because I'd have to wait at least a week to get the go-ahead from the UN; there could be no gurantee of being able to cross the border even then (administratively and physically!); the bike is in no shape for 700km+ of badly surfaced hairpin bends; and of course I should try to keep to my new schedule and spend maximum time fundraising in Australia. It's always possible to find reasons not to do things and I'll probably regret it later - but right now it seems the most sensible course of action. Kupang, is an MSF 'cartegory 2' danger zone whilst the nearest border town is a 4. But Kupang, a metropolis compared to everywhere else this side of Bali, seems to be a laid back place, I like it here, even with UN soldiers strategically stationed throughout town. I visited the demo yesterday and the protestors momentarily forgot their demo to drool over the bike - same story everywhere. There are 20-30 NGOs working here and I've made friends with a number of individuals, notably an Indonesian couple from Flores Willy and Desti Bala. He is outreach manager at Médecins Sans Frontières and she works for the local Oxfam which itself works with 20 other NGOs. They are interested in how motorcycles can be used for primary health delivery in Flores island. MSF would have helped with stickers for the bike should I have attempted the border, they are well respected and hence would have been a sort of shield. I'd have made a Union Jack too to show clearly my non-Australianess, they are held principally to blame by the militants. I also had a long talk with a group of British working with the Voluntary Service Overseas (VSO), motorcyclists all of them and Diane even knew about FEMA's efforts and had won a Riders for Health T shirt at Donington Park! Bored with life? Get a real one by checking out the VSO website! Anyway, time to get the bike packed for tomorrow's flight and brace myself for another culture shock. Darwin is one of those strange type of Western places, rumoured to have hot water and things like that. I've stocked up on cheap soap and toothpaste and even bought another pair of socks, the previous ones ran off having had enough coming all the way from Dubai. I washed my sleeping bag today! New chapter starting, quite exciting really. Thanks Guz, Jim, Metzeler, Bert Flood Imports and others who are ready to help in Australia. Simon Milward
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