Diary & Travel Reports by Simon Milward
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00/07/12 Aid, kayaks & muddy ruts
Wed, 12 Jul 2000 07:57:31 GMT |
2k/06/12 Nepal, the launch-pad
2k/06/02
2k/03/28
2k/03/08
2k/02/19
2k/02/09
2k/01/28
2k/01/21
2k/01/10
99/12/26
99/12/26
99/12/23
99/10/
99/09/23
99/09/06
99/07/28
99/07/17
99/07/11
99/06/12
99/05/04
99/04/10 |
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[sorry for the empty mail "Muddy" 7/7/2000]
Hello Everyone I adopted the Around the World for Peace practise of starting with a press release for the benefit of the press and media. Nepal has surfaced at the top of my list of favourite countries. The most memorable time was last week when fellow round the world biker Johnny Guru from London, on a Honda Transalp, some Nepali friends on their Escorts Yamaha 100 and I took a ride up to the Tibet border for three days. We knew we couldn't get in because we had no visas, we went just for the ride.
We took some inter-village roads (if you can call them that) to a village well off the main highway. We spent nearly two days on the tracks covering a grand total of 25km! Mud, rocks and ruts (deep enough to swallow the bike) kept the bikes on the ground, rubber side up, for much of the time. Camping on a hilltop on night we were a special show for the locals. They told us not to go into the jungle a few metres away because of the tiger risk. Gulp! I had been in there looking for firewood, no wonder the children had not followed! They were all sat there attentively though as I came out - hoping to see some action no doubt. Another night we slept in a school house, awakened by 50 kids wondering who had taken over their classroom. It reminded of the toy runs I participated in with the local bikers back in Exeter UK. The next serious off-roading will hopefully be done luggage-less, with nobbly Metzeler tyres (the MCE Karoo) rather than the dual purpose trailies (though I cannot fault the Enduro 3s at all). HEALTH DELIVERY BY M/C: During my first week or so here people said that the Riders for Health idea of medical deliveries by motorcycle in rural areas was perfect for Nepal. Indeed, there are hundreds of 100cc motorcycles wherever you look, all running. But there is a big problem with health delivery in rural areas. Motorcycles could be particularly useful in remote areas of the Terrai, the flat area north of India. They were thought not suitable for the mountain villages - after last weekend I would tend to agree! I brought the African experience of a 400% improvement in the health delivery rate with a well-managed fleet of motorcycles used by health workers, to the attention of the Nepal Health Ministry which is now considering if/how the idea can be included in current programmes. Nepal has been the recipient of international aid for a long while and there is a danger of this leading to corruption and demotivation, compounding an already "c'est la vie" or "that's my karma can't change it" attitude to one's lot in life. There are a plethora of NGOs wokring here, mostly I'm sure doing a great job. I made it clear I brought no money, just an idea. But it is easy for me to drop off an idea as I'm passing through. It is up to the Nepalis to make it work. DISGRACE: I read the book "Lords of Poverty" by Graham Hancock on the freewheeling lifestyles, power, prestige and corruption in the multi-billion dollar aid business, as administered by the likes of the UN and IMF. I am disgusted shocked and shamed that western taxpayers' money is being worse than wasted. Catalogued are numerable instances where billions of OUR dollars have been spent and resulted in deaths and destruction of land and cultures. How come after 50 years of giving aid to poor countries, many of them are are worse off had we not come with our billions? Simple, international financial aid benefits mainly the donor country and those who work in this ludicrously lucrative industry. The book was written 10 years ago, but I'm sure things haven't changed. Am I alone in being ignorant of this scandal? With this in mind I gladly bought my kukuri this morning - the Nepali knife, used by Ghurka soldiers to slice off arms and heads and by housewives to chop parsely. I'm full of admiration for the Ghurkas, fighters with real spirit. There is a long history of the Nepali bravery in battle and loyalty to the British. Some Gurkha new recruits even complained bitterly that WWII finished before they had a chance to bloody their kukuris. Mine is an ancient one costing $5, needs cleaning up and sharpening, but will do nicely. FUNDRAISING: I raised a total of $150 here so far. This came from Syakar Company, the Hero Honda distributor (who have been very helpful indeed) and Himalaya Broadcasting Company's Radio station HBC 94FM (check them out online at www.peacenetworkhbc.com.np. "Peace network envisions a creative exchange with other radio stations, musicians and artists worldwide. A bridge of sound across time and space promotes international friendship and respect.") I don't really expect to raise any more than that, though am talking to the local Amercian-owned Casino. MOTORCYCLING here is very popular (all are 125s and 100s) but there are no clubs and there is no interest in forming a riders' rights organisation. Pressed on the subject, riders tell me the biggest problems are the state of the roads and too many cars causing congestion. The helmet law is enforced only for riders not pillions. MY HEALTH - it constantly needs consideration. I've been at the anti-biotics again for the toes (now healed) and sore throat. Up to yesterday I was getting frequent bouts of stomach cramps - but that's now passed whatever it was. The malaria comes back when I've been badly bitten by mosquitos, which in fact are not too bad here. I managed to find a cure for my skin problem of psoriasis, at last after 25 years, it's Ayurvedic herbal stuff. I'd left the Dead Sea mud and water in Delhi unintentionally. BIG THANKS to Hotel Association members Hotel Tayoma, Mount Annapuna Guest House, Tibet Guest House all in Kathmandu and The Kantipur in Pokhara. The Gaia Guest House is currently putting me up and the Sunrise Guest House will after my kayak trip. THE KAYAK experience starts tomorrow. Andy, a German, runs an kayaking outfit, but since it is now off-season (the waters are commercially too dangerous being mid-monsoon) they just go off for a few days to enjoy themselves and he invited me. His team are planning to kayak down 10 Nepali rivers as 'first descents' (they haven't been done before) aiming to raise cash for a network of special support camps for Nepali women with AIDS and their children. They are tricked into prostitution in India then sent home when they get AIDS. TIMETABLE: Travelling round the world the first consideration is the climate. Once you are out of kilt with the seasons considering the two hemispheres you've had it. The only way I can get back on track is to spend a year extra on the road. Therefore I hope my money will last and that the FEMA full Committee follows the recommendation of the Finance Committee. I thought to myself "Simon, you've got one chance at this and one only. If you miss out half the world and its continents, countries and cultures you shall regret it for the rest of your life." ROUTE: I'm still chasing a good deal on a flight to Bangkok or Singapore. I plan to do SE Asia including Indonesia and Australasia (all that south of Singapore) before the Winter, then all that north of Singapore after. This is due to the seasons. I should be in Japan next Spring to speak to the motorcyclists, then over to Valdivostock in June following the Trans Siberian railway for a week or so before heading north to Magadan. Then I'll hop across to Alaska in Summer 2001, spending about 6 months in the Americas, before coming home via Africa. The unsung heroes of the Millennium Motorcycle Ride are: Christina who is looking after the banking and sponsor processing arrangements in Belgium, Uschla who is keeping the home page going and forwarding emails in Germany and Mike at EC1 looking after the server and other internet stuff. Before signing off, there have been a few bad addresses from new sponsors, mostly from the UAE I think, in particular Graham and Niketa, therefore if you know if anyone has sponsored but is not getting emails let me know. Lastly, further to my last comments about Hindu Saddhus and a complaint from someone who took offence. I did not see for myself them eating the decaying remaims of humans in floating in the Ganges at Varanasi, and therefore retract that statement. Cheers for now Simon
This interim report is intended for those who support the Millennium Motorcycle Ride. Share this dream while raising funds for medical health care registered charities Médecins Sans Frontières (worldwide) and Riders for Health (Gambia appeal). For 20 Euro/US$ + goodwill donation you get a commemorative pin badges and this regular email updates. Corporate sponsors welcome. |
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